I was very excited to explore local wines on a recent trip to Greece. This culture has a history of wine-making going back to 3000 BC, so they know a thing or two. A day-trip on the island of Santorini was an eye-opening lesson on cultivating grapes and producing fine wines in a very harsh climate, from ancient vineyards grown far differently than anywhere else.
Santorini is home to some of the world’s finest wines. The volcanic soils, barren landscape, and brutal growing conditions (intense wind, heat, and very little rainfall) result in low yields of intense, high-alcohol, mineral white wines and full-bodied intense reds. Assyrtiko (A-seer- tee -ko) from Santorini is considered one of the wine wonders of the world: a refreshing dry and flavorful full-bodied white wine with lemon/citrus flavors, a salty/mineral tang, with high alcohol & high acidity. Flavors develop into stone fruit (apricot) and toast when aged.
Vines here are managed in a unique way: they are not trellised. Instead, they are kept close to the ground and the shoots that sprout each spring are wrapped around the trunk to create a basket, which from a distance looks like a wine bush. This helps the vine stay as cool as possible and provides an interior space for the buds to grow and the eventual grapes to ripen while protected from the harsh sun and winds.
Also, these vines are not irrigated. Fresh water is scarce in Santorini: what is trucked in is saved for drinking. So these vines work hard to get moisture through air and ground sources. The struggle results in super flavorful wines. Since these are seldom exported, I recommend you make an effort to taste the fine wines from Santorini if you ever get to this part of the world.
